-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-One free afternoon
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run!
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:25
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!)
-Pack of matches
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:25
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.
This must be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.
If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:21
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the posassium nitrate.
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:20
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:18
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help:
Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another.
REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!) When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down!
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:16
- A disk
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!).
ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!!
Posted by xtreme_paranoid at 00:14